Introduction
In 1996, Larksfield resident Esther Myers Wenzel was interviewed as
part of the I, Witness to History Oral History
Program in Retirement Communities. The audiotape was archived at the Ablah Library
at Wichita State University after a transcript was prepared.
Since then, the
Resource Learning Center at Larksfield has
helped her develop these web pages about two specific events of popular and historical
interest in her life that took place in 1936:
sailing to Europe on
the White Star Line (the ill-fated R..M.S. Titanic was also a White Star
Liner as you may recall), and
attending the
1936 Olympics in Berlin while she was
abroad. We call such creative projects "LifeWorks."
Esther Myers was 20 at
the time of her cruise and she saved all of her bon voyage cards, notes and menus. Some of
that memorabilia is presented here for your enjoyment, along with selected photos.
Terryl Asla
director of The Resource Center at Larksfield Place and
I, Witness to History.
February 18, 1999
They say getting there is half the fun. And so it was. In those
days traveling to Europe was only possible by ship. In 1936, when I made the trip to do
graduate study for two months and to see the Olympic Games in Berlin, I
sailed on the S.S. Berengaria, a large Cunard White Star Liner.
We were to sail at
midnight from New York City, so about 6:30 that evening we left by taxi for the pier.
There were 1600 passengers on the Berengaria and a crew of 750 making a total of 2350
people aboard. As we left our taxi, we became a part of the surging mass of people
entering the huge sailing dock.
Peddlers cried out,
"Flowers for your friends-- buy your gardenias here."
We were told that 12,000 people paid 10
cents each to get on the ship and visit their friends until sailing time. Many a thousand
didnt get on, but stood out on the pier.
I had invited a dear
college friend who was studying in New York that summer to come down to the pier and see
me off. Little did I know about such mobs. Of course we never found one another.
Throngs of people
pushed their way off the ship as the warning gongs sounded. Right on the dot, sailors
loosened the ropes and the gangplanks were pulled over onto the pier. As the Berengaria
pulled away, the crowd of 25,000 cheered wildly and waved goodbye.
We watched the
magnificent skyline of Manhattan pass by and the lights of Brooklyn, Coney, and Jersey
were aglow. Lady Liberty bade us a fond farewell.
When we
finally went to our cabin , we had a pleasant surprise awaiting us. Since a six day
journey lay ahead of us before we reached Cherbourg, France, we received baskets of fruit,
candies, flowers, and Bon Voyage letters from family and friends. Such a custom made the
trip most exciting. In that day, we were leaving g on a real adventure! Today ships travel
so much faster, communications are almost instantaneous. So, the gracious custom of Bon
Voyage gifts is not so prevalent.
My traveling companions and I
were students. We traveled second and third class as most students did in those days. This
meant that there were 2 to 4 people in each cabin. Our accommodations were comfortable but
not luxurious by any means. We were housed in a lower level of the ship with our own
lounges and dining rooms.
In fact, all ships
at that time were divided into distinct classes and a higher class part of the ship was
strictly off limits for lower class passengers. Only if you were invited to accompany a
passenger who had a cabin in a "higher class," you could go into that part of
the ship to see an entertainment, eat in the dining room, or dance in the ballroom, etc.
We were fortunate to meet people who invited us to those first class events, and we
enjoyed the lovely parts of the ship.
Sixty years ago in
1936, the Exercise Age had not yet arrived . For 65 cents, the ship traveler rented
a deck chair and blanket for the duration of the trip. You rented a chair on the
south side of the ship, of course, to catch any possible sun. You were prepared to
spend the time enjoying the sea air and a good book. This advice came from those who made
the trip often, but occasionally one walked the deck.
Exercise Rooms were
unheard of at that time. However, there were numerous indoor games, movies, a library, and
many kinds of entertainments to please the travelers. First Class dining was formal on all
nights except the first and last, as they are on liners today. Other class passengers were
very informal. Sunday church services were conducted for Jewish, Protestant, and Catholic
passengers.
The Queen Mary liner
was the marvel of 1936. When she passed close to us traveling to New York, we sent
"ocean letters" via the Queen home to relatives. We knew the messages would
arrive several days ahead of any we could send from our ship.
The leisurely style
of travel aboard ship was restful and relaxing. One could prepare for the busy days ahead,
and there was no such thing as jet lag.
On the sixth day, we
were up before dawn and out on the deck to see land! In the gray mist of morning, there
lay France. The lights of Cherbourg twinkled faintly. The gently rolling hills stretched
away from the coast where trees and patches of green hills could be seen. A lighthouse and
ten forts built at the time of Napoleon came into view.
Slowly, as the light
grew brighter we could see the spires of the buildings of Cherbourg. Several tenders
guided our huge ship up to the customs building and finally we were in France. We could
savor every bit of this exciting experience. It was very different from arriving at an
airport, where one is often tired and feeling jet lagged.
A journey by ship
gives one a chance to prepare for the sights and sounds of another world, to savor the
change in customs, to bid goodbye to a familiar lifestyle and to embrace another
lifestyle.
I have been
privileged to travel to Europe twice by ship and have flown back and forth several times
since. I think if time permits, an ocean voyage is the perfect way to "get
there." What a shame Americans are always in such a hurry, because an ocean voyage is
half the fun.

Copyright
© 1996, 2000, Esther Wenzel. "I, Witness to History" and
logo are trademarks of Wesley Retirement Communities, Inc., d/b/a
Larksfield Place. All rights reserved.
7373 East 29th Street North, Wichita, KS 67226.
Email: tasla@larksfieldplace.org.
Phone: 316/636-1000.
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